PolyBrick Installationsvejledning

31 Jul 2026

PolyBrick is a dry-laid modular system. There is no mortar, no mixing and no curing, and a wall that takes a bricklayer a day goes up in a couple of hours. The trade-off is that everything depends on the base: a dry-laid system cannot absorb an uneven foundation the way a mortar bed can.

Get the first course dead level and the rest of the build is quick and forgiving. Get it wrong and the error compounds with every course.

Step by step

How to install it

Set out and check your dimensions
Mark the footprint and check it against the block module before you dig. Working to the module saves cutting and gives a cleaner finish. Check diagonals to confirm you are square.
Excavate and build a compacted base
Excavate to firm ground and build a compacted sub-base as you would for any structure: geotextile, then MOT Type 1 in compacted layers of no more than 75mm. For a low garden wall 100mm is usually adequate; for anything retaining or load bearing, go deeper.
Screed the base dead level
Screed a grit sand blinding and check it with a long level in both directions and across the diagonals. This is the step that determines the whole build. Spend the time here.
Lay the first course
Lay the first course of blocks and check the level of every single one, along the run and across the width. Adjust by working the sand beneath rather than by packing under one edge. Do not begin the second course until the first is right.
Build up in stretcher bond
Stack subsequent courses in a staggered bond so the vertical joints do not line up, exactly as you would with brick or block. The interlocking geometry does the alignment for you; your job is to check level every two or three courses.
Use lintels over openings
Where you need an opening, bridge it with a lintel unit rather than spanning with standard blocks. Support the lintel at both ends onto full blocks, not onto a cut.
Cap the top course
Finish with cap units. Caps close the top of the wall, shed water and give the finished edge. Nothing stacks on top of a cap: it terminates the column, so plan your final course height before you get there.
Backfill in layers if retaining
Where the wall retains any material, backfill in compacted layers behind it as you build rather than all at once at the end, and provide drainage behind the wall. A dry-laid wall is permeable, but hydrostatic pressure behind any retaining structure still has to be managed.

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How high can I build?

For free-standing garden walls and planters the system is straightforward. For retaining walls or anything structural, the height depends on the retained material, drainage and loading, so ask us with the details rather than working from a general figure.

Do the blocks need fixing together?

No. The system is dry-laid and relies on interlocking geometry and self-weight. That is what makes it fast to build and possible to dismantle and reuse.

Can I cut the blocks?

Yes, with a suitable saw. Plan your setting out to the module first: a design that works to whole units looks better and goes up faster.

Can I take it apart again?

Yes, which is one of the main advantages over masonry. Blocks can be lifted and reused, so a planter or a temporary wall is not a permanent commitment.

Is it frost proof?

Yes. The material is a weather-stable recycled polypropylene rated well below any UK winter temperature, and being dry-laid there is no mortar joint to fail.

PolyBrick Installationsvejledning

How to install it

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